Sewing-machine.



J. P. WEIS.

SEWING MACHINE.

- APPLIOATION FILED JULY 13, 1909.

Patented May 21, 1912.

4 SHEETS-SHEET L WITNESSES.

J. P. WEIS.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 13, 1909 Patented May 21, 1912.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

WITNESSES: d4 17m J. P. WEIS.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 13, 1909.

1,026,839. Patented May 21, 1912.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

I nun, v "HM WIN/E8858:

J. P. WEIS.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION IILED JULY 13, 1900.

1,026,839. Patented May 21, 1912.

4 BHEBTS8HEET 4.

WITNESSES.

UNITED STATES. PATENT OFFICE.

JOHN P. WEIS, OF NYACK, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR T LUGIUS N. LITTAUER, OF

GLOVERSVILLE, NEW YORK.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 21, 1912.

Application filed July 13, 1909. Serial No. 507,368.

T 0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN P. EIs, a citizen of the United States, res1d1ng in 'N 'ack, county of Rockland, and State of New York, have invented a new and useful improvement in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a description.

.\l v invention relates to sewing machines of the type in which trimming, binding, and t\\'lll are done simultaneously.

Particularly, my invention relates to mechanism by. which the work is trimmed preparatory to binding, and stitching ,the

, ause such materials stretch excessively under the action of the feed and during the application of the binding and also because .they ordinarily present a ragged, uneven and rough edge Which, if not previously disposed of, will give to the binding, when applied. a bulky, uneven, and distorted appearance. \Vith these conditions of the work, ditliculty has been found in mechanically applying the binding evenly and smoothly and in a manner to overcome the tendency of the material and binding to packer or stretch relatively and avoid the uneven and bulky appearance of the edge of the work after the bindingis applied.

It is. therefore, among the objects of my invention to provide certain novel features of construction and combinations of elements which, in the niachine,-will ope ate and cooperate to trim the edge of the work uniformly and accurately, advance both the body fabric and binding simultaneously, and evenly and smoothly stitch the binding along it edges to the body fabric.

With this and other objects in view, which will be clearly set forth during the course of the description, my invention consists in certain elements and combinations of elenients, devices and features of construction, all as hereinafter fully set forth and particularly referred to in the claims.

In the drawings forming part of this deseription: Figure 1 is a side elevation of a sewing machine to which I have applied my invention; F ig. 2 is a top plan View of the mechanism of the machine located below the cloth-plate thereof, the vertical arm of the machine being shown in transverse section; Fig. 3 is a top plan view of the cloth-plate, this view also showing a section of the vertical arm of the machine to which one end of the cloth-plate is attached; Fig. 4 is a plan view of the throat-plate; Fig. 5 is a front elevation of the binder; Fig. 6 is a perspective view showing in full lines the binding and its two directions of travel, and the mode in which it is turned or reversed and applied to the edge of the body fabric, which latter is shown in dotted lines; Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the guard-plate; Fig. 8 is a transverse vertical section of the machine taken just to the right, in Fig. 1, of the trinnner-blade, or substantially centrally of the trimmer mechanism; Fig. 9 is a perspective view showing the trimmer-blade and its attached shunt-guide; and Fig. 10 is a perspective view of the binder.

In the drawings, the numeral 1 indicates the bed-plate of the machine, 2 the vertical arm thereof, which is extended into the overhanging-arm 3, carrying at its forward end the head 4, in which the needle-bar 5 and presser-bar (i have their bearing, the needle-bar being rcciprocated vertically in said head by means of the collar 7, piv- .otally connected to the link 8, which latter is also pivotally connected to the forward end of the vibratory lever 9, fulcrumed at 10, to the vertical arm of the machine, and having the rear extension 11 connected in the usual manner to the pitman 12, having at its lower end the strap 13, surrounding an eccentric on the driving-shaft 14, carrying at its outer; end the combined handwheel and ulley 15, said driving-shaft being jonrna ed near its rear end in the vertical arm of the machine andat its forward end in a standard 16. rising from the bedplate near its forward end. The depending arm 11 of the needle-actuating lever is connected by pitman 10 to the looper 12 of the machine. The forward end of the drivingshaft 14 is provided with the disk 17, diametrically slotted for the reception of a slide-piece 18, which is adjustable in usual manner in said slot and which carries a cranlcpin having the usual eccentric 1!), for actuating the strap 20, connected at its rear end to the feed-rocker 21, the upper end of which supports the feed-bar 22, and the forward end of which latter has fixed thereto a feed-dog divided or formed into'a short portion 23, arranged and operating directly behind the needle 5*, and a longer portion 2a, arranged and operating in rear of the needle but at one side thereof and having a ranged to operate in front of the-needle a considerable distance and in line with the portion 23 ofthe rear feed-dog, and'the other portion 28 of which is quite long and operates in advance of the needle, but at one side'thereof, and in alinement with the portion 24 of. the rear feed-dog. The longer portion 28 of the front feed-dog, at its rear end adjacent the part 24 of the rear feeddog, is provided with a narrowed part 28*, similar to that of the rear feed-dog, these two narrowed parts of the front and rear feed-dogs being arranged to extend one past the other,at one side of the needle, and having a sliding cooperative action for the purpose of preventingany possibility of the work being lost control of under any circumstance during the operation of the machine; that is to'say, the portion 23 of the rear feed-dog operates upon the combined binding and material in rear of thestitclr ing position and carries the same away from the needle after the stitches have been formed, while the portion 24 of the rear feed-dog operates upon the body-material in rear of the needle at one side thereof and in advance thereof. The portions 27 and 28 of the front fowl-dog operate wholly upon the body-material in advance of the stitch-. ing and the application of the bindingthereto, and maintain the edge of the body-material in proper position so that the binding will be applied smoothly and, so to speak, solidly to the edge of thebodymaterial; that is to say, so that there will be no space between the loop of thebinding and the edge of the body-material and the two will be combined closely and intimately.

The cooperative portions 24; and 28 of the respective feed-dogs, in addition to the main body of said dogs, keep the body-material under constant control, since it is being constantly operated 'upon" by both of said feed-dogs, This is an important feature of my invention, in view of the fact that it has been found t-hat,at a certain point in the operation of binding machines otherwise constructed, the material is. lost control of, which causes it to momentarily mark time or stop at the stitching position, thus causing the work to become more or less puckered anddrawn and the stitches tob e more or less loose. I have overcome this trouble by extending the front feeddog portion 28" into coeperation with the rear feed-dog portion 2a, or past fone another in the same 'horizontalplane, and thereby maintaining control of the bodyfabric at all times during the operation of the machine and causing the latter to constantly and progressively advance the bodymaterial to and from the stitching position and, after the binding has been applied thereto, causing the latter to be constantly and progressively fed away from the stitching position, since the usual drag of the body-material, when lost control of by the ordinary feed, is completely eliminated. There is still another and very i1n1 ortant function in constructing the frontand rear feed-dogs as described, which. resides in the fact that, by making the portion 27 of the front feeddog comparatively short,'so that it does not approach close to the stitching position, the presser-foot and throat-plate can be cut away so as-to permit the throat and delivery-end of the binder to be entered close to the stitching position, thus avoiding a long length of binding extending between the throat of the binder and the stitching position in advance of the needle, and hence preventing any slack from forming in the binding prior to itsapplication to the body-material and after it has left the throat of the binder, and also per- .mitting the body-material to be fed to the generally speaking, the bi 'u'lerand the trimmer operate close to both the feed, presserfoot and throat-plate and all tend to crowd the small space which surrounds'the stitching positlon. This fact, taken with the fact that it is necessary at times to be able to have free access to the looper for threading purposes, or access to other parts below the cloth and throat plates adjacent the stitching position, makes the fact of the omission of the feed-dog structure, or, in other words, the shortening of the feed-dog portion 27 in advance of the stitching position, doubly important. Especially iszthis so since a very large space is left around the It will be understood that, in machines of this type, i

stitching position into which the binder can be advanced,the resser-foot also being cut away as noted to get its proper location and intimate association with the stitch-forming mechanism, and when, for any purpose, it is desired to get at the mechanism or devicesbelow the cloth-plate, the binder can be retracted or moved out of the way for ready access. This enables the handy threading up of the machine and periodical cleaning of parts below the cloth-plate without disturbing the intimate relation between the parts just described. The front feeddog may be of the differential type; that is to say, actuated with a different speed, 0| in different time, relatively to the rear feeddog, its mot-ions being imparted through the medium of the link 29, pivotally connected to a pin 30, extending from the slide 26 and connected at its other end to a lever 31, under control of a sliding-shoe 32, actuated by a pitman 33, connected to a crank 01' eccentric on'the forward end of the driving-shaft. This mechanism is, or may be, substantially the same as that disclosed in my application Serial No. 330,959, filed August 17, 1906. In this feed mechanism,

the movements of the supplemental feeddog are controlled or limited by stop-pins 34, which can be adjusted vertically on the rod 35, suitably fixed at its lower end in a bracket 36, formed on or adjacent to the bed 1.

The trimming mechanism is arranged so as to trim the edge of the body material not only in advance of the stitching, but also in advance of the application of the binding to the edge of the body material, the trimmerand ledger blades, in consequence,\being arranged in front of the binder but close thereto. as clearly shown in Figs. 2, 3 and 8. The trimming mechanism, in its general structure and its mode of application to the machine, is, in all material respects, substantially the same as that disclosed in my pending application Serial No. 279,116, filed September 19, 1905, andL in consequence, a detailed description will not here be' given; but the various parts, which are features of the-trimming mechanism of my said application, are' generallyindicated by37. One of the important features of my present construction resides in the addition of a diverter 38, for the trimming which is cut from the edge of the body-material, to the upper arm 39 of the trimmer-lever, said lever having, at its forward end, the trimmer blade of the same form as in my said pending application. The diverter extends horizontally along the length of the trimmer-arm 39 and conforms substantially to the shape thereofand is vertically turned at its rear end to produce the diverter-portion '41, at the upper end'of which is the overhanging-guard 42, which prevents the trimming from rising and running over the diverter-portion. An important feature of this construction resides in the fact that the diverter, thus combined with the trimming mechanism, can be quickly removed from the machine and disposed of when the trim mer is removed; and the particular advantage of having it connected to the trimmer- ,arm is that when, during the operation of the machine, it is desired to stop the trimming action of the trimmer-blade, the latter, together with the diverter, can be quickly depressed below the cloth-plate of the machine by the mechanism illustrated in Fig. 8 and fully set forth in my aforesaid application Serial No.27 9,116. Another important feature is that, by connecting the diverter to the trin'imer-arm, said diverter is kept in constant vibration during the trimming operation, resulting 'in keeping the trimming constantly in movement and causing the same to be gradually .carried away from the trimmer-arm and over to the shuntguide and guard-plate .shown in Fig. 7. This keeps the diverter free from being crowded with the trimming and also keeps the diverter free from lint, since the agitation or vibration of said diverter will cause the lint to also be carried over to the shunt-guide and guard-plate. This has the important advantage also of keeping the driving-shaft and other parts located below the cloth-plate quite free from lint, which, in prior art machines, ultimately clogs the mechanism and retards the'free and rapid action of the machine.

The cooperating shunt-guide and guard shown in Fig- 7 consists of a plate having the longitudinal, outwardly=detlected, lower portion 43, which extends to the bottom of the bed-plate, and, above the same, a substantiallyyertical portion 44, provided at its opposite ends with longitudinal slots 45, through which attaching-screws 46 are passed and which are screwed into the front edge of the bed-plate, as shown in Fig. 1, the slots permitting adjustmentof the said plate lengthwise of the machine. Above the said vertical portion 44, the guard is formed concaved to its top edge, as shown at 47. These features constitute the guard-portion of the plate, since they prevent lint, dust and other substances from reaching the op-- crating mechanism of the machine atthis point and prevent the work from engaging said mechanism and the latter from throwing oil upon the work. The shunt-guide portion of the plate comprises the inclined part 48, connecting at its lower end with the concaved portion 47, and having at its upper end the substantially horizontal ledge 49, extending rcarwardly to the vertical portion 50, which forms a continuation of the concaved portion 47 of the plate. W'ith the plate thus constructed, and in the position parts just described, which Operate upon the trimming and lint, are'not, in their details, made the subject of claim in this case.

M The arrangement of the parts ofsaid mechanism, in combination with the feeding and stitch-forming mechanism and in combination with the binder, is, however, a feature of invention in this case. That .is to say, with the feed-dogs and cooperating presserfoot constructed and arranged as described, so as to permit the binder to beset with its delivery end within the notch 66 of the presserfoot and notch 66 of .the throatplate, and open sides of the feed-dogs, and extending laterally beyond the stitching po sition in front thereof, thus producing the most intimate association of said parts possible, the trimming mechanism can be advanced close up to the binder and arranged at one side of the stitching position and substantially in line withthe throat of the delivery end of the-binder, in order that the edge of the material may be properly trimmed and yet'permit said trimmed edge to be guided in the binder and maintained by the feed and foot close-up in the fold of the binding, as has been described heretofore. This will be readily understood upon reference to Figs, 2, 3 and 8.

The binder is shown in detail in Figs. 5-

and 10 and consists of the attaching-plate 51, provided with the holes 52, through which are. passed screws 53', for attaching the same to the slide-plate 54, see Fig. 3.-

The holes 52'are slightly larger than'the bodies of the screws 53 for the purpose of enabling the binderto be adjusted substantially universally in a horizontal plane on the slide-plate 54., relatively to the path of reciprocation of the needle, whereby the forward end of the binder-head 55. can be brought into the proper position relatively to the needle, the feed-dogs and the trimmer. The slide-plate 54 is set in the usual ways in the cloth-plate of the imachine so that it may be moved to carry the binder into and out of operative position. A thumb-screw 56 is passed through the slide-plate 54 and is sufficiently long to impinge against the bottom of the depression 57, whereby the slide-plate can be held in any position to which it is adjusted. The binder is so secured to the slide-plate 54: that the upper surface 58 of the 'lower one of the jaws 59 lies in the same horizontal plane with the surfaceof the throat-plate 60 and the for- Ward ends of the two opposing jaws 59 are projected so'far toward. the feeding mechanism as to lie between the portion 24 of the rear feed-dog and the portion 27 of the 1 front feed-dog withits groove or needlenotch 61in alinement with the needle-slot 62 in the throat-plate 60 and the needleaperture 63. in the presser-foot 64. Referring to Fig. 4, it will be seen that, in addition to the feed-slots 65, the'throat-plate is provided with a side notch 66 for the ad'- .mission of the lower jawof the binder and with the notch 67 for the location of the lower, or ledger-blade 68'of the trimmer, and, on reference to Fig. 3, it will be seen that the presser-foot is similarly notched, as at 66 'and 67 the one for the reception of the upper jaw of the binder, and the other for the reception of the ledger-blade and the trimmer-blade.

surface of the lower jaw of the binder forms practically .a continuation of thethroatplate surfaces in front, at one side and in rear of the path of reciprocation of the needle, thus making, notwithstanding the side notch 66 in the throat-plate, a substan tially continuous and smooth surface and support for the binding in its travel through the machine. struction of parts, it will be seen -that the edge of the body-material and the binding can be fed through the binder and up to the stitch-formingmechanism without drag or retardation'from any source, since the passage through the binder and over the throat-plate and between the foot and feed is smooth and unobstructed.

The machine is provided with the usual pull-off 70, forLth looper-thread, and with the usual thread-clamp 71 and take-up 72, allas common in this type of machine, which is the well-known Metropolitan chainstitch machine. The machine is likewise provided with the usual thread-guides 73 and the p'resser-foot is pivoted at 74 to the shank 75, which is carried by the presserbar 6. By thus supporting the presser-foot, the same is enabled to yield to varying thicknesses of the work passing throughthe machine.

The binding or tape 76 is usually carried on a reel, supported conveniently near or on the machine, and from said reel runs across the cloth-plate 'of the machine to and around the binding-screw 56' and thencearound the several tension-pins 77, successively, and thence directly to the rear end 7 8 .of the binder, the longitudinal slot 7 9 in the binder,.see Fig. 5, being for-the purpose of using an instrument to thread the tape into the binder. After the tape has been With the constructions shown, it will be seen that the upper By this association and conthroat between the two jaws 59, which reverses the said binding and places it with its open side adjacent the edge of the body material which is to be bound, said body material being indicated in Fig. 6 by the numeral 80.

From the foregoing description, but a' brief statementof the mode of operation will be necessary and, principally, it should be understood that, if knit-goods are operated upon and a differential movement is given to the feeding mechanism, the body material will be fed up to the trimmer, past the binder and to stitching position by the differential feed-dog, the binding being applied to the edge of the body material by the binder,and the binding stitched in place. The two materials, as thus combined, will be fed away from the stitching position. The differential feed prevents the body material from stretching or puckering, as clearly set forth in my Patent No. 922,646, dated May 25, 1909. By associating the portions 24 and 28 of the feed-dogs, as already described, the body material is kept in motion, is not allowed to diminish in its speed, or

hesitate at the stitching position. and, in

consequence, no puckering or looseness be tween the binding and the body material'will occur.. As the body material is fed into and through the machine, if the trimmer is in operation, the edge thereof will be evenly trimmed and the trimming will naturally fall to the right side upon the diverter, the rapid vibration of which Will\ carry said trimming, together with lint which may be produced, directly over onto 'the shuntguide and thence down the incline thereof to the bottom of the concaved portion 47 of the guard-plate, and thence to the floor, or into a' fcatch-all, which may be supplied for the purpose. The tape or binding, led from the reel or bobbin across the rear of the cloth-plate to the binding-screw 56, and thence to the uide-pins 77, is first placed under tension y passin around the binding-screw and is kept s 00th by the latter, anclis then placed under further tension by the pins 7 7: From the pins 77, the binding passes through the binder is reversed in the thr0at 0f the binder, applied directly to the edge of the body material and carried directly under the needle of they stitch-forming mechanism, which needle enetrates said binding close to its edges an the body material at a distancefrom its edge. The body nnaterial is kept up to its proper position by the feeding mechanism operating constantly and progressively thereon-and the binding is prevented from having guy slackbetween the cloth of the binder an e stitching position, owing to the short distance between the two and the fact that it cannot sag because quicklg of being completely supported by the binder and the throat-plate in front of and around the path of reciprocation of the needle. At this point, it is desired tolay stress upon the cooperation of the trimming mechanism, feeding mechanism and binding mechanism, since the relation of the said three mechanisms is such as to enable the body material to be fed constantly and rogressively forward to the trimming mec anlsm, which, in consequence, is enabled to evenl and accurately trim the edge of the b y material, which edge is subsequentlycarried forward' by the feeding mechanism to the binder, which latter applies the binding smoothly to the trimmed edge. By constructing the feed-dogs, as heretofore described, the trimmer is enabled to be approached close to the feed without interfering with the bindin and 'the binder is enabled to be approache. close to the feed and the stitching position without interfering in any manner with the feed and the trimming mechanism; also, access to the stitch-forming mechanism can be obtained, since the binder can be retracte from its operative position and the trimmer, with its diverter, can be depressed so as not to interfere with the hands of the operator when such access is desired. Another important feature of my invention resides in the fact that, at any time during the stitching and binding, trimming ofthe body materlal can be carriedon in advance of the stitching and binding and can be omitted at the will of the o erator inorder to produce special work. (gther important features and combinations will have stress laid upon them by'being mentioned, both broadly and specifically, 1n 'the claims.

Havlng thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1.. The combination in, a sewin machine of stitch-forming mechanism, fee ing mechanism, and trimming mechanism, the feeding no mechanism comprising" independent feed,- dogs arranged one behind the other and having cooperating feeding parts extending past each other at one side of the stitching position, and the trimming mechanism be ing arranged in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism and at one side of the front feed-part.

2. The combination in a sewing machine of stitch-forming mechanism, differential 12o feeding mechanism, and a binder, the feeding mechanism comprising independent feed-dogs having parts arran ed in alinement but separate so as to cave a space between them, and the binder having its delivery end set in said space infront of the stitch-forming mechanism.

3. The comblnatlon 1n a sewlng machine of stitch-forming mechanism, feeding mechcomprising two independent feed-dogs having portions in alinement and arranged at one side of thestitch-forming mechanism,

and alsohaving, otherportions arranged in front of'and behind theneedle of the stitchforming mechanism, a binder arranged in front of said needle and between "the lastnamed portions of the saidfeed-parts, and means for giving the feed-parts differential 10 movements.

. 4.-The combination in a sewing machine of stitch-forming mechanism, difierential feeding mechanism, the feeding mechanism comprising feed-dogs having portions ar- '15 ranged at one side of the stitching position and extending one past the other ina horizontal plane, for the purposes descri ed.

5. The combination in a sewing ma ine of a feeding mechanism, a throat-plate, and a resser-foot, the throat-plate, v resser-foot and feeding-devices of the feeding mechanism having registering cut-out portions, v and a binder arranged-with its delivery end in saidpcut-out portions in advance of the stitching position, and with a feed-portion of the feeding mechanism in front of and behind said binder end, and means whereby the binder may be withdrawn from its operative position at will during the operation of the machine.

' 6. The combination in a sewing machine of stitch-forming mechanism, work feeding mechanism, and trimming mechanism, all the parts ofthetrimming mechanism being ar-, ranged in front of thestitch-formingmech- 'anism and having a diverter and a guard secured thereto and-movable therewith for scribing witnesses.

' JOHN P. WEIS.

Witnesses W. H. BEHRINGER, A. THEMANS. 

